Learn Ethiopia before you go

10 phrases to learn

In Amharic (አማርኛ). Capital letters show the stressed part. Tap the heart to practise a phrase later.

At the table

• Wash your hands before the meal. In many homes a jug of water and a basin are brought to you at the table.
• Eat with your right hand only. Tear off a piece of injera, use it to pinch up some stew, and eat from the part of the shared platter in front of you.
• Your host may lift a rolled mouthful to your lips. This is gursha, a sign of friendship and respect, and it is polite to accept it; you may return the gesture.
• Wait for the host or the eldest person to begin. In many Christian and Muslim homes a short prayer is said first.
• Many Orthodox Christians eat no meat, eggs or dairy on Wednesdays, Fridays and during Lent, and Muslims and Orthodox Christians do not eat pork. Ask before you bring food as a gift.
• If you are invited to a coffee ceremony, take your time: it can last an hour, and it is polite to stay for more than one cup.

Local tips

Dishes to try

• Injera (እንጀራ): A large, round sourdough flatbread with a spongy surface full of tiny holes, made from teff flour and water left to ferment for several days. It is cooked on one side only on a wide clay plate called a mitad. Injera is both the plate and the cutlery: stews are served on top of it, and more injera is rolled up on the side for scooping.
• Doro wat (ዶሮ ወጥ): A deep red, spicy chicken stew made with a large amount of slowly cooked onions, berbere and spiced butter, with whole hard-boiled eggs added at the end. It is the dish of feast days, above all Christmas and Easter, when the long fast ends, and many people call it the national dish.
• Misir wat (ምስር ወጥ): Split red lentils cooked with onions, garlic and berbere into a thick, spicy stew. Made with oil instead of butter, it contains no animal products, so it is one of the most popular dishes on the many fasting days.
• Shiro (ሽሮ): A smooth, thick stew made from powdered chickpeas or broad beans, cooked with onions, garlic and spices. It is cheap, quick and filling, eaten in homes every day, and often brought to the table still bubbling in a small clay pot.
• Tibs (ጥብስ): Pieces of beef, lamb or goat quickly fried with onions, green chillies, butter and sometimes rosemary. It can be mild or hot, and is often brought to the table sizzling in a small clay dish over coals.
• Kitfo (ክትፎ): Finely minced beef mixed with a hot chilli powder called mitmita and warm spiced butter. It is traditionally eaten raw, served with mild fresh cheese, chopped greens and injera or kocho, a bread made from the false banana plant. Kitfo is a favourite for holidays such as Meskel.
• Beyaynetu (በያይነቱ): A large round of injera covered with small heaps of many different dishes: lentils, split peas, shiro, cabbage, greens, beetroot and more. The fasting version has no animal products at all, which makes it a favourite of vegetarians and vegans visiting Ethiopia.
• Firfir (ፍርፍር): A popular breakfast of torn pieces of injera or bread fried with spiced butter, berbere and onions, or mixed with leftover wat. It is a good way to use yesterday's injera and is often eaten with a spoon.

Cities to see

• Addis Ababa (capital): The National Museum, with a replica of Lucy, Holy Trinity Cathedral, Merkato, a huge open-air market.
• Aksum: The stelae fields and the Obelisk of Aksum, The Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, Ancient royal tombs.
• Mekelle: The palace of Emperor Yohannes IV, Salt caravans from the Danakil, Rock-cut churches in the countryside around it.
• Gondar: The castles of Fasil Ghebbi, The painted ceiling of Debre Berhan Selassie church, The bath of Fasilides, used for Timkat.
• Lalibela: The rock-hewn churches, Christmas (Genna) pilgrimages, Mountain views and monasteries nearby.
• Bahir Dar: Lake Tana and its monasteries, The Blue Nile Falls nearby, Papyrus boats called tankwa.

Landmarks and the city map are on the Ethiopia trip